Appliances · Updated May 2026

How many watts does an air conditioner use? Real numbers by BTU.

A 12,000 BTU window unit pulls about 1,050 W running. A 36,000 BTU central system pulls 3,500–4,500 W. Here's the wattage and the cost per hour for every common AC type in 2026.

TL;DR: Divide BTU by your unit's EER to get watts. Modern Energy Star: EER 12 for window, 18-22 SEER2 for central. At the US average $0.175/kWh: a window AC costs $0.18–$0.32/hour; a central system $0.61–$0.79/hour while compressor is running.

Wattage formula

An AC's nameplate gives you either watts directly or BTU/hr cooling capacity and an efficiency rating. The conversion:

watts = BTU/hr ÷ EER
cost_per_hour = (watts ÷ 1000) × rate

EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio) is BTU per watt at fixed test conditions. SEER and SEER2 are seasonal versions used for central systems — divide SEER by 1.1 for a rough EER equivalent.

Wattage by AC type

TypeTypical BTUWatts (running)$/hour @ $0.175
Small window unit5,000–6,000450–550$0.08–$0.10
Medium window8,000–10,000700–900$0.12–$0.16
Large window12,000–15,0001,000–1,300$0.18–$0.23
Portable AC8,000–14,000900–1,500$0.16–$0.26
Mini-split 1-zone9,000–18,000500–1,400$0.09–$0.25
Central 2 ton24,0002,000–3,000$0.35–$0.53
Central 3 ton36,0003,000–4,500$0.53–$0.79
Central 5 ton60,0005,000–7,000$0.88–$1.23
Worked example · reproduce it in the calculator

Window vs central — one cooling season, same hours

Inputs: a 12,000 BTU window unit (1,050 W) vs a 3-ton central system (3,500 W, the low end of its 3,000–4,500 W range), both at the US average rate of $0.175/kWh. We assume a 4-month cooling season (120 days) and 8 compressor-hours per day — that is the AC running 16 h/day at the 50% duty cycle described below, so only half of those hours draw power.

Window — 1.05 kW × 8 h × 120 days = 1,008 kWh$176 / season
Central 3 ton — 3.5 kW × 8 h × 120 days = 3,360 kWh$588 / season
Difference — 2,352 kWh$412 / season
The takeaway: cooling one room with a window unit costs about $176 for the season; cooling the whole house with central air costs roughly $588 — 3.3× more, because it moves 3.3× the wattage over the same hours. If you only occupy one or two rooms most of the day, a window or mini-split unit is the cheaper way to stay cool. Whole-house comfort is the thing you're paying $412 extra for.

Different wattage, rate, or season length? Drop your own numbers into the electricity cost calculator for your exact figure.

Monthly cost: what you'll really pay

Hourly cost only tells half the story — your AC doesn't run 24/7. Compressor duty cycle averages 30–70% during use. Typical summer-month bill addition by climate:

Should you upgrade to a higher-SEER unit?

Wattage scales inversely with efficiency: the same cooling output through a SEER2 22 system draws far fewer watts than through an old SEER2 14 one. For the 3-ton central system above (3,500 W, ~SEER2 14), moving to a SEER2 22 inverter unit cuts running power to about 2,230 W — roughly $214 less per cooling season on the same 8 compressor-hours/day. That number is the lever; here's when it's worth pulling.

Upgrade to a higher-SEER unit if…

  • Your current system is SEER2 14 or lower (anything 12+ years old usually is).
  • You run AC hard for 4+ months a year, so the ~$214/season saving compounds.
  • Your rate is above $0.175/kWh, or a tiered/peak plan pushes summer load into a high bracket.
  • The old unit is near end of life anyway — replace it with an inverter mini-split or SEER2 18–22 central, not like-for-like.

Keep yours if…

  • Your unit is already SEER2 16+ — the extra efficiency gain is small and the payback stretches past the unit's remaining life.
  • You only cool a few weeks a year (mild climate, short season).
  • You cool one or two rooms — a $200–$400 window or portable unit beats a multi-thousand-dollar central swap.
  • The cheap wins still on the table — filter, setpoint, smart thermostat, shaded condenser — would close most of the gap first.

5 ways to cut AC wattage

  1. Raise the setpoint 2 °F. Saves ~6–10% on cooling.
  2. Clean the filter monthly. Dirty filter cuts efficiency by up to 15%.
  3. Use a smart thermostat with schedule. 5–8% savings, no comfort loss.
  4. Shade the outdoor condenser. 5–10% reduction in compressor load on sunny days.
  5. Switch to a heat pump / mini-split with inverter compressor. 30–50% less electricity than fixed-speed AC.

The general electricity cost calculator takes wattage and hours and gives you daily/monthly/yearly. For whole-home electrification with a heat pump that also heats, see the heat pump calculator.

Frequently asked questions

What is EER vs SEER vs SEER2?

EER is efficiency at a fixed 95 °F test. SEER averages across a cooling season. SEER2 (mandatory since 2023) uses a more rigorous test reflecting real ductwork pressure — SEER2 ≈ SEER × 0.95.

Does running the AC longer at a higher temp save electricity?

Generally no — the more efficient strategy is to set it once at your comfort temp and let it cycle. Setbacks save energy only when the house is unoccupied for 8+ hours.

Are portable ACs really less efficient?

Yes. Portable units have a single exhaust hose that depressurizes the room, drawing in hot outside air through every gap. Real efficiency is 20–40% worse than the nameplate suggests. Window units always win on $/BTU.